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Installing a bath tub isn't specifically rocket science, however it does need strong plumbing, carpentry, and also sometimes, tiling skills. Changing an old bathtub with a brand-new one is also a moderately tough project. If the old bathtub is conveniently available, the task can move easily; if you have to open up a wall surface to remove the old bathtub and position the new tub, the job is a lot harder. In either situation, the task is within a residence handyman's abilities, although you will certainly need an assistant to leave the old bathtub as well as embeded in the new one. See to it you have certified on your own for the task and also are comfortable trying it. As opposed to hiring a specialist to take control of a halfway-completed project, it is far better to take into consideration employing one before you start. Chances are you may require an expert plumber to make tube links.
This article will certainly assist you mount a new tub in your washroom if you have already bought a new tub and do not require to transform the arrangement of your previous water system pipelines.
Your devices and material checklist must consist of the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to change old faucets with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you must do is separate the water supply. After doing so, turn on the faucets to drain pipes any kind of water continuing to be in the system. The procedure of getting rid of the existing taps can be quite problematic because of the restricted gain access to that is usually the instance.
Make use of a container wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that connects the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the continuing to be water that will certainly come from the pipes. Once the supply pipes have been gotten rid of, make use of the same device to loosen up the nut that holds the faucets onto the bath/basin. You will certainly require to quit the solitary faucets from transforming throughout this procedure. When the faucets have been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleaned up of any old sealing compound.
Before moving on to fit the new faucets, contrast the pipeline links on the old taps to the new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the new taps, then a shank adapter is needed for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Suitable New Taps
If the tails of the new taps are plastic, after that you will certainly require a plastic port to avoid damage to the thread. One end of the adapter fits on the plastic tail of the faucet and also the various other end offers a connection to the existent supply pipelines.
If you require to fit a monobloc, after that you will certainly call for minimizing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the conventional 15mm supply pipe.
Next off, place the tap in the mounting opening in the bath/basin making certain that the washers are in area in between the tap and also the sink. Safeguard the tap in place with the supplier given backnut. Once the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipes can be attached to the tails of the faucets. The taps can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with regular faucet ports. The former kind must be linked to the tap finishes first, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipes can later on be linked to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been attached.
Setting up the Bathtub
Making use of both wooden boards under its feet, position the bathtub in the called for setting. The wooden boards are practical in equally spreading the weight of the bath tub over the area of the boards instead of concentrating all the weight onto four tiny points.
The following goal is to make certain that the tub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by inspecting the spirit level as well as adjusting the feet on the tub until the level reads degree.
To install faucets, fit the bottom of the outermost flexible faucet connector to the proper supply pipe by making a compression sign up with; then do the very same for the various other tap.
Activate the supply of water as well as check all joints as well as new pipework for leaks and tighten them if required. Load the bath tub and additionally check the overflow electrical outlet and the typical electrical outlet for leaks.
Ultimately, repair the bathroom paneling as described in the producer's user's manual. Tiling and sealing around the bath tub should wait up until the bath tub has been utilized at the very least once as this will resolve it into its final setting.
Preparing for the Setup
First of all, the sustaining structure supplied with the bath needs to be fitted (if required) according to the producer's directions. Next, fit the faucets or mixer to the bath tub. When suitable the tap block, it is very important to see to it that if the tap includes a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bathroom and the taps. On a plastic bathroom, it is also practical to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to stop pressure on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible tap ports to the bottom of both faucets making use of 2 nuts and olives (in some cases supplied with the bathtub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet opening, and then pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Utilize the nut provided by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Check out the plug-hole electrical outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipeline.
Next off, fit completion of the versatile overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipeline to the overflow face which need to be fitted inside the bathroom. Make sure you use all of the supplied washers.
Connect the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and screw on the catch to the electrical outlet. Attach all-time low of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bathroom need to currently prepare to be suited its last setting.
Tiling Around the Tub
In the area where the bathroom satisfies the ceramic tile, it is required to secure the accompanies a silicone rubber caulking. This is very important as the installation can move enough to crack a rigid seal, causing the water to pass through the wall surface in between the bathroom as well as the tiling, resulting in complications with wetness and also feasible leaks to the ceiling below.
You can choose from a selection of coloured sealers to blend in your fixtures and installations. They are marketed in tubes as well as cartridges, and are capable of securing voids as much as a width of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill up, you can fill it with twists of drenched paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to constantly load the bath tub with water prior to sealing, to allow for the activity experienced when the bathtub is in use. The sealer can split fairly very early if you do not consider this movement prior to securing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be used to border the bathroom or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to dimension, are also conveniently offered on the market. It is advisable to fit the floor tiles using waterproof or water resistant adhesive as well as cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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